Based on a 1999 A3 1.6 Sport 5dr
On the driver's side (UK off-side):
On the Passenger side (UK near-side):
Process is the same as for Driver's side only the battery is in the way. I believe the options are probably to remove the battery from its housing, or remove the light cluster unit altogether. Anyone else have any ideas?
If you have a 2001 A4 Avant, you can access the bulbs from inside the rear Cd changer and road jack compartments, using only a screw driver.
You will need to remove the three screws holding the CD changer harness to access the plastic lamp unit on driver's side. Once it's out you can pinch to release the lamp unit and simply swap out the bulb. For the brake light, you will need a Sylvania/Osram 7528 which has a dual filament. Note that the little raised metal bumps on the side of the bulb base mean it only goes in one way before giving a little twist to lock it in place.
On the passenger side, simply remove the jack from the compartment and you can reach the lamp unit. Pinch the white plastic tabs to pull it in and you can swap out the bulb without needing any tools.
Here's how to do it if you have an A4 Avant up to 2004:-
To change a bulb on the the A4 Avant model year 2004 you have to remove the entire tail lamp cluster, disconnect it from the wiring loom, pull off the black bulb holder plate, then you can finally get access to the individual bulbs to replace them. The process is pretty easy, but the owners manual recommends that you take the car to a workshop. If you can handle a screwdriver and open a refrigerator door you can probably manage this job yourself. If you don't like getting your hands dirty or are affraid of breaking something then let the nice people at Audi take your money!
The description below is quite long, but hopefully clear for even the most inept weekend mechanic.
You will need some very basic tools:-
1) A small flat blade screwdriver
and
2) An 8mm socket & driver (or a cross-head screwdriver - I will explain below)
Process:-
Each tail lamp unit is held in position by a single screw and two short pins (they are brittle - so be warned). We need to undo the screw and pop the pins (which are located on the lamp unit) out of the holes in the chassis. So....
So there you are - "money for old rope"! Good Luck.
Also see the photos on this link to see the exact location of the pins and how the light cluster comes away from the car.
http://www.jmaguire.com/blog/2006/02/05/stoplight.HTML
The bonnet release lever is at the foot of the front passenger.
The 2009 Audi A3 has a drag coefficient of 0.33 Cd.
A combination of pulling and pushing the 2 speedo buttons at the same time
The 2009 Audi A3's engine produces 200 hp @ 5100 rpm.
--->To change your oil, put the front end of your car up on ramps so you can get underneath your car. Before you get underneath though, unscrew the oil cap on the top of your engine (this will allow the oil to drain much faster once you unscrew the oil pan nut underneath the car).
--->Climb under your car and remove the skid plate, it's easy to do (the skid plate blocks your access to the oil pan and oil filter, hence necessity of removing the skid plate) -- There are about 8 Allen screws holding it in.
--->Once you have the skid plate removed and out of the way, locate the oil pan, it should be aluminum and halfway between your front two tires... There is a (i believe) 19mm nut, maybe 3/4"...but that is what you unscrew to allow your nasty oil out...careful, there is a washer on that bolt that can fall into your oil drain pan when the nut comes out and oil gushes. The washer is brass and a magnet won't find it in your spent oil pan.
--->The oil filter is located halfway between your wheels, but towards the front of the car JUST behind the radiator fans. Once you find it, on the bottom of the filter housing is a cap that unscrews, unscrew it with your hands. You will see a small nipple that has a hole in the center. Put your Allen wrench in there, push IN and to the RIGHT. This will bleed the oil filter of remaining oil with less mess than just unscrewing the oil filter housing. DO THIS GENTLY BUT WITH ENOUGH FORCE TO ALLOW THE BLEEDER TO OPEN! If you break this part it is about 100 dollars and lots of time and trouble.
--->Put your new filter in (There's an o-ring that comes with your new filter--make sure old o-ring is out, and use the new one with your new oil filter). Reset the filter housing bleeder nipple to its normal position CAREFULLY! Put your new filter on, screw on the filter housing, screw on the bleeder cap.
--->Make sure you have the correct oil for your car, and fill it up with new oil. Make sure you do NOT overfill! You can destroy your engine by overfilling.
--->I usually put a half quart less than the recommended level, then check the level on the dipstick... JUST err on the side of not overfilling. Check the dipstick, if it's low, add the remaining half quart and you should be good.
--->Reattach your skid plate under your car.
--->Put your oil pan nut back in (might use some anti-seize on the bolt to avoid future problems removing it again), give it a good tightening.
You can run it straight through, but the whole reason for running it through the disposal is to catch anything comming off your dishes before it can clog up the pipes.
it should be on the last page of the owners manual you could also fill a gas can keep it in the trunk and when you run out use the gas can to get you to a gas station you will know how much was in the gas can and the pump will till you how much more you put in add the two amounts